The model 101 skeleton is one of my favorite things EVER. I approve of this analogy.

BUILD IT SO IT CANNOT EVER BE DESTROYED.

im totally following andy's lead. i love the way your putting yourself into all of your builds. i love how you have a vision and thats what you follow. if others dont approve or understand.......... well then just run them the fuck over and laugh

As promised...
Here's an example of how overdone the factory wiring is in this car. Say I wanted to strip out one of the front doors. It's got to be a couple of plugs and maybe a pound or so of wiring, isn't it?:

...yeah right. about 20 minutes later messing around with harnesses and sub-harnesses, clips, modules, insulation and retainers, it finally looks like this:

Here's what I took out of one door. about 10 lbs. of bullshit that is no longer needed. This isn't including the wiring for the power window, which still works on the jump pack and will with the EZ harness:


More of the cage so far, as requested. Door bars aren't going in until I have the seat in place to ensure abslute comfort around the left arm and knee. I'm adding a few more bars as well just for the sake of structural rigidity. Also notice that I drop the cage through the floor via holes that get covered up by the baseplates later on. This way there's plenty of room to TIG weld and get my head where I can see. Makes for much better welds and much tighter fitment than just building plinths (boxes) on their own. Even though you'll never see these welds, I still want to make sure they're perfect:








This isn't the final equipment, but you see what I'm hinting at:

Epik wrote:is that chromoly? if not it is some of the brightest mild steel i have ever seen.. mine was almost black.

If he wants to drift it an any legit event ever I hope not. that shit is illegal

It's the fucking TERMINATOR. It has to be a mimetic polyalloy.
Even though that would be a T1000.
FUCKIT.

^^


btw mranlet, badass welds!

Yeah dude nice welds on that stuff. I like where the pedal box is going, nice and far back seating position I assume. I'd love to do that, but a decent pedalbox setup and making the lines is a little outside of my budget. Just curios, any reason you didn't gusset the panel connecting the brace to the A-pillar connecting bar? I only ask because I assume you have access to dimple dies and a press. Keep up the good work though, love what I'm seeing.

Its a hyper-alloy combat chassis. Fully armored. Very tough. The rollcage material is seamless dom mild that I've sanded to a shine and clear-coated with metallic wheel clear. I'm not really sweating making this machine FD legal or anything, but I would like to have it close to NASA CCR spec that I can talk a scruitineer into letting me run.

I definitely do have access to dimple-dies, but I've got something special planned for those pieces and the bottom side of the sunroof bar to windshield roof bar, so they're not going in just yet. There's so much going into this thing that will blow people's minds that I'm dying to give the details away, but I can't say anything until they're done.

I love this righteous build.

mranlet wrote:There's so much going into this thing that will blow people's loads that I'm dying to give the details away, but I can't say anything until they're done.

holy shit. no wonder why you couldnt show the thing off. I like what I see so far.

I gotcha on the special thing for that area. Can't wait to see what it actually is.

Also you paid for seamless tubing? Last I'd checked it was between $10-12 a foot. I always just used regular D.O.M. I get the appeal but it seems like a really pricey way to do it considering the normal D.O.M stuff is accepted. I like the idea of clear coating the cleaned up tubing, looks awesome.

No way man. I think it was $3.80/ft at our minor shop discount from Alro Metals. NASA specifies a requirement for Seamless in their rules, as do serious classes of SCCA or any other real sanctioning body. Formula D requirements serve their purpose but are pretty much a joke when compared to bodies that are very serious about safety, and I'm building this to survive an apocalypse and will be riding walls all day long every day.

There was a good period of time where I seriously contemplated completely removing the gas pedal and having a toggle switch from idle to full throttle with no in between. Everything has been all figured out on how to make it work. Maybe it'll still find it's way on the car, maybe not...

These floor-mount pedals are from an STI, so they're mad cheap and have a remote clutch pedal mechanism that I need to make things work properly. However, if you want a real floor mount pedals, there are some inexpensive no-frills setups available in the $200-300 range.
http://merlinmotorsport.co.uk/product_i ... rrency=USD" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/TIL-72-642A" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

You still have to buy Masters and the adjuster separately if you wanna use these. I went with Wilwood reverse swing on mine. Everything out the door with three masters was $456. I wish I would've done a little better research on the masters though. My master cylinders are WAYYY to big!

Unboosted masters need to run a size smaller typically. I'm going to just use them as a rig and adapt the factory (or some factory) master for both clutch and brake.