Back off topic for a second. I remember reading an article about how factory break in procedures didn't really work for most engines. The site listed several factors including the higher cylinder prssures at higher RPM as reasons the factory procedures were ineffective. Anyone else read this? I can't rememeber where I saw it.

darkducati wrote:Back off topic for a second. I remember reading an article about how factory break in procedures didn't really work for most engines. The site listed several factors including the higher cylinder prssures at higher RPM as reasons the factory procedures were ineffective. Anyone else read this? I can't rememeber where I saw it.

well, there are many schools of thought on this one. i subscribe to the methods described in the article you are thinking of, which is basically saying "beat on it and it'll run better". if you are too easy on the engine the rings won't wear properly to the cylinder walls and you'll get crappy seating causing lower compression and higher blowby amounts. if you run the engine pretty hard from the beginning, especially short blasts to near redline followed by engine braking down a hill, it will seat the rings better and the engine will tend to run happier.

http://www.mototuneusa.com/break_in_secrets.htm

I believe this theory about engines and thats how I've pretty much ran most of my vehicles minus the Jeep. Leaks oil now and I'm affraid that it'll srpay oil if I get it under to much pressure. But as far as breaking a car in wouldn't you want to take it easy for the FOERST 250-500 miles to and run only Regular Oil not Synthetic so that the regular oil can build up a kind of caking to help seal the engine. But I guess running it harder from the beginning wouldn't make that much difference just as long as the Oil pressure isn't ridiculously high.
But going on that, wouldn't that fall along the same lines as the Turbo? The Turbo has seals and if I have super high oil pressure then wouldn't I have to worry about makign a good seal. Yea sure theres a great seal from the Factory but is it enough?

BTW: here's a picture of my Dirty engine bay with the Turbo mounted.

ChadMK4 wrote:I believe this theory about engines and thats how I've pretty much ran most of my vehicles minus the Jeep. Leaks oil now and I'm affraid that it'll srpay oil if I get it under to much pressure. But as far as breaking a car in wouldn't you want to take it easy for the FOERST 250-500 miles to and run only Regular Oil not Synthetic so that the regular oil can build up a kind of caking to help seal the engine. But I guess running it harder from the beginning wouldn't make that much difference just as long as the Oil pressure isn't ridiculously high.
But going on that, wouldn't that fall along the same lines as the Turbo? The Turbo has seals and if I have super high oil pressure then wouldn't I have to worry about makign a good seal. Yea sure theres a great seal from the Factory but is it enough?

BTW: here's a picture of my Dirty engine bay with the Turbo mounted.

synthetic oil for break in is bad because a small amount of oil still makes it up onto the cylinder walls and synthetics are so slippery that it won't let the rings create enough friction between the ring and the crosshatch on the cylinder walls, this causes poor ring seating and less power than an engine with well seated rings. basically on a new motor you start'er up, let it warm up to full operating temps (VERY important) and then break it in either on a dyno or on the street.

in your case, i'm assuming you just did the turbo swap? if that's so then as long as you warm up the engine to operating temps before nailing it then the turbo will remain happy. i've run synthetic on my 2871 since i installed the thing and have never had any issue out of it. never babied it, just always warm the car up before driving hard at all, and use that turbo timer for some cool down after hard running. another thing to consider is that the center section of the turbo doesn't really become "pressurized" with oil (it does slightly, but not like the oil pressure sensor reads). as soon as it comes out of the oil line it bathes the needed parts as it falls to the drain. as long as your oil drain isn't bad/clogged then your turbo should never see enough internal pressure to blow out the seals.

ugg...Chad remind me to teach you how to resize pics

Rhoad Racing wrote:ugg...Chad remind me to teach you how to resize pics

hehe..

Chad, is that a Blackhole wastegate?

Hell, I haven't the foggiest.. You tell me..

oh it's an AR turbo, I didn't see where you posted what kind it was. Deadbolt makes the Blackhole wastegate. awesome awesome turbos, and pricey as hell

It's got a .48 a/r with .51 trim and a stage 3 16 blade turbine wheel. It is not ball bearing.

you should consider getting rid of the wastegate cover you have now and get a custom flanged downpipe with a divorced wastegate

this is what I have on the WRX, do something similar.....

also, are you going to rotate your center section? your oil drain is pointing up and should be pointing down.

That looks awesome and I may do something in the near future. But money is getting tight and I need to work some seeing that I haven't worked in over a month. Once I start rocking and rolling again. I will have more expendable cash.. Hopefully I will be able to install the injectors and fuel pressure reg in the next few weeks and after that I will do the waste gate and dump pipe. I've still got some much to do to the car. Seats, Half Cage, newer rims and I'm thinking about doing a Silvia conversion. But it looks like Erin beat me to it. Looks really good though. I may have to do it anyway. Haven't figured out what color to paint the car yet. It won't be anythign crazy though. If anything, maybe a baby sky blue. Something that stands out but isn't to ghey.

keep the lazy eyes. pop ups rock.