silvia ID help
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- Prince Nismo
- Imitation Crab Meat
- Posts: 383
- Joined: Fri Jun 11, 2004 3:27 pm
- Location: back in the ATL!
silvia ID help
ok kids so since i'm trying to make my car reliable as possible i've considered going the whole N/A route. yeah yeah yeah i know booooo! anyways, what is the difference between the Silvia A's, K's, and Q's? i know the K's was a coupe with the SR. but what was the A's and Q's? i know one of them was a N/A SR20 but which o the confusion is too much! please hel[/
Drift long
Shift Short
Boost High
Ride low
12 psi a day keeps the honda away!
Shift Short
Boost High
Ride low
12 psi a day keeps the honda away!
- djdorifto
- Clam Salesman
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- Joined: Wed Apr 21, 2004 2:14 am
- Location: Melbourne, Fl (ex-southern californian)
Hmm, don't get the S13 SR20DE's low power hehe
180sx
-Type S and G are SR20DE
The S13 Silvia model's are
- J and Q
This is all 95-98 S14's Zenki or Kouki
-J's N/A base model (green with gold badging)
-Q's N/A full package (black with silver badging)
S15-
Spec-S SR20DE
They also came out with a Autech SR20DE for the S15, it's 200hp.
So the deference of the J and Q models is just the car itself, not the engine specs. Just base model and fll package model. Hope this helps!
S14 SR20DE with ITB's on that sucker. Perfect track car.
180sx
-Type S and G are SR20DE
The S13 Silvia model's are
- J and Q
This is all 95-98 S14's Zenki or Kouki
-J's N/A base model (green with gold badging)
-Q's N/A full package (black with silver badging)
S15-
Spec-S SR20DE
They also came out with a Autech SR20DE for the S15, it's 200hp.
So the deference of the J and Q models is just the car itself, not the engine specs. Just base model and fll package model. Hope this helps!
S14 SR20DE with ITB's on that sucker. Perfect track car.
- icantdrift
- Salsa Rodeo
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- Joined: Fri Sep 03, 2004 1:03 pm
- icantdrift
- Salsa Rodeo
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- Joined: Fri Sep 03, 2004 1:03 pm
yeah i think i may have just gotten one of those random motors that was built by the dude that got laid the night before ... but every well maintained SR car i've ever messed with was a good solid setup. the unreliable ones are the ones that are either shitty swap jobs or tuned very poorly, or just plain horribly maintained.
- Prince Nismo
- Imitation Crab Meat
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- Joined: Fri Jun 11, 2004 3:27 pm
- Location: back in the ATL!
thanks guys preesh-ie ate it! i was considering trying to find a SR20DE but i had thought about it and decided that i could try to go with this rumored SR20VE RWD. but trying to find it has been all but pointless! i was thinking about stay KA and just doing a lighten flywheel to get the revs up faster. set it up touge style... good brake, suspesnion and the basic upgrades.....
Intake, Header, Exhaust, S-AFC II (some ecu variasion) and maybe some cams, clutch and flywheel. i figure that would get me a decent ride for highway and some mountain fun o yeah also throw a LSD in there somewhere. any thoughts on JM's thought process. i have had my great fun with the RB and i just want something that i can have some fun with that will be reliable and stand a good pushing.
Intake, Header, Exhaust, S-AFC II (some ecu variasion) and maybe some cams, clutch and flywheel. i figure that would get me a decent ride for highway and some mountain fun o yeah also throw a LSD in there somewhere. any thoughts on JM's thought process. i have had my great fun with the RB and i just want something that i can have some fun with that will be reliable and stand a good pushing.
Drift long
Shift Short
Boost High
Ride low
12 psi a day keeps the honda away!
Shift Short
Boost High
Ride low
12 psi a day keeps the honda away!
- icantdrift
- Salsa Rodeo
- Posts: 5987
- Joined: Fri Sep 03, 2004 1:03 pm
Prince Nismo wrote:thanks guys preesh-ie ate it! i was considering trying to find a SR20DE but i had thought about it and decided that i could try to go with this rumored SR20VE RWD. but trying to find it has been all but pointless! i was thinking about stay KA and just doing a lighten flywheel to get the revs up faster. set it up touge style... good brake, suspesnion and the basic upgrades.....
Intake, Header, Exhaust, S-AFC II (some ecu variasion) and maybe some cams, clutch and flywheel. i figure that would get me a decent ride for highway and some mountain fun o yeah also throw a LSD in there somewhere. any thoughts on JM's thought process. i have had my great fun with the RB and i just want something that i can have some fun with that will be reliable and stand a good pushing.
the VE is a badass motor, but very limited production as far as i know. if i was going NA that would be the engine to have, but a well tuned KA is pretty peppy too. if i were doing an NA KA setup, i would go with a light flywheel, some kind of shortened cold air intake (intake goes down under battery tray instead of across the radiator), some kind of decent header and exhaust system, and then eventually i'd fabricate a nice ITB setup . then i'd probably add an AFC to play with the fuel and play with timing settings to pull the most out of it while keeping it reliable.
- Prince Nismo
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- icantdrift
- Salsa Rodeo
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honestly what I would do is a low buck turbo setup if you just want a reliable extra bit of power. if you run a relatively small turbo and a low level of boost then you'll get that power you want without actually sacrificing reliablilty.
here's my budget KA setup:
-log manifold w/T3 flange ~$300
-older T3 from on of the many many cars that ran them stock in the 80's (saabs/volvos/fords)~$100 used or ~$350 new
-Saab/Volvo intercooler (the single core one that's about the size of a radiator, you can just move the radiator back an inch and mount it right in front making the piping super short). with piping you're looking at maybe $20 for the cooler from a junkyard and maybe $40 in misc piping if you want it to be kinda pretty so we'll say ~$75
-some kind of cheaper BOV~$100w/flange (or 1G DSM valve for cheaper)
-downpipe for SR ~$125 new
-custom O2 housing from turbo to downpipe ~$25 to fabricate
-oil lines ~$50 if you use nice braided -4AN line and brass fittings
-walbro 255hp fuel pump ~$85
then all you really need for tuning is a SAFC and some SR injectors, maybe a Z32 MAF just for shits and giggles. knock back the timing and run 93 octane and you have a mid 200hp fun and reliable car. actually the setup i just described is almost identical to what tony schultz (sp?) ran/runs on his S14. when you add up the NA stuff with ITB's the budget turbo setup is most likely cheaper in the long run.
here's my budget KA setup:
-log manifold w/T3 flange ~$300
-older T3 from on of the many many cars that ran them stock in the 80's (saabs/volvos/fords)~$100 used or ~$350 new
-Saab/Volvo intercooler (the single core one that's about the size of a radiator, you can just move the radiator back an inch and mount it right in front making the piping super short). with piping you're looking at maybe $20 for the cooler from a junkyard and maybe $40 in misc piping if you want it to be kinda pretty so we'll say ~$75
-some kind of cheaper BOV~$100w/flange (or 1G DSM valve for cheaper)
-downpipe for SR ~$125 new
-custom O2 housing from turbo to downpipe ~$25 to fabricate
-oil lines ~$50 if you use nice braided -4AN line and brass fittings
-walbro 255hp fuel pump ~$85
then all you really need for tuning is a SAFC and some SR injectors, maybe a Z32 MAF just for shits and giggles. knock back the timing and run 93 octane and you have a mid 200hp fun and reliable car. actually the setup i just described is almost identical to what tony schultz (sp?) ran/runs on his S14. when you add up the NA stuff with ITB's the budget turbo setup is most likely cheaper in the long run.
- Prince Nismo
- Imitation Crab Meat
- Posts: 383
- Joined: Fri Jun 11, 2004 3:27 pm
- Location: back in the ATL!
- Prince Nismo
- Imitation Crab Meat
- Posts: 383
- Joined: Fri Jun 11, 2004 3:27 pm
- Location: back in the ATL!